For classic deli food, you can't do much better than Rein's New York Style Deli-Restaurant in Vernon. The menu features all of the standards: matzoh-ball soup; chopped liver; blintzes; potato pancakes; noodle pudding; brisket; stuffed cabbage; overstuffed sandwiches; and half sour pickles.

The dining room is divided into areas named after New York's five boroughs. We're seated in The Bronx, where we peruse the huge menu, then get down to business. For starters, we order bowls of mushroom and barley and matzoh-ball soup, the ultimate Jewish comfort foods. Both soups are long-simmered, rich and tasty.

The corned beef sandwich on rye is served with a side of fresh coleslaw. Corned beef is lean and fresh, and the bread is caraway-studded and chewy. Chopped liver on rye is artery-clogging, but delicious. At the next table, a customer proclaims the brisket dinner, served with mashed potatoes and coleslaw, "better than mom used to make." Baked macaroni and cheese is a hefty block of firm pasta mortared together with a creamy, cheesy sauce.

The dessert menu features New York cheesecake with fruit toppings; bread pudding laced with fruit cocktail; a moist, dense lemon cake with orange glaze; and stewed prunes.